The 6:03am Bus That Changes Everything
At Palma’s Estació Intermodal, I watch the early shift board the 301 to Manacor: hotel workers, hospital staff, students half-asleep against windows. This is Mallorca’s public transport reality – a system designed for residents commuting to work, not tourists heading to beaches.
After living car-free in Mallorca for three years (by choice, then necessity, now stubbornness), I’ve learned that yes, you can explore this island by bus and train. But you need to adjust your expectations, master the schedules, and accept that some experiences require a 5am alarm.
The British couple studying the TIB map looks confused. The German family argues about connections. The local woman next to me catches the driver’s eye, and he waits an extra 30 seconds for her friend running from the café.
This is the system you’re entering: functional, affordable, occasionally maddening, surprisingly comprehensive if you know how to use it.
The Two Systems That Don’t Talk
Mallorca has two separate public transport networks that barely acknowledge each other’s existence:
EMT (Palma city buses): Red buses, 31 routes, €2 singles TIB (Rest of island): Yellow/green buses, 40 routes, €2-13.50 singles
They don’t share tickets. They don’t coordinate schedules. They sometimes don’t even stop at the same stations. Welcome to Spanish federalism at the municipal level.
EMT Palma: The City Network
The Routes That Matter
Line 3 (Illetes Beach)
- Every 15 minutes summer, 30 winter
- Palma center → Cala Major → Illetes
- 35 minutes to beach
- €2 one way
Line 15 (Airport)
- Every 30 minutes
- Plaza España → San Joan → Airport
- Stops at Playa de Palma
- €5 single
Line 25 (Playa de Palma)
- Every 20 minutes summer
- Slower than L15 but cheaper
- €2 single
Line 46 (Bellver Castle)
- Every 20-30 minutes
- Only goes halfway up hill
- 15-minute walk to castle remains
The Payment Revolution
New in 2025 Contactless payment on all buses
- Tap credit card: €2
- Tap phone: €2
- Cash: Still accepted but exact change appreciated
The Resident Card
- Free travel for residents with TIB card
- Requires NIE and empadronamiento
- Tourists can’t get it (don’t try)
The Reality Check
Peak Hours (7-9am, 2-4pm, 6-8pm):
- Buses full of workers
- May skip stops when full
- Air conditioning struggles
Beach Buses Summer
- Packed after 10am
- Return buses 4-7pm are sardine cans
- Bring water, prepare to stand
TIB: The Island Network
Understanding the Route Numbers
100s Northern routes (Alcúdia, Pollença, Formentor) 200s Eastern routes (Artà, Cala Millor, Manacor) 300s Eastern/Southern (Santanyí, Campos, Felanitx) 400s Central routes (Inca, Sineu, Petra) 500s Western routes (Sóller, Deià, Valldemossa)
The Beach Routes That Work
Line 210 (Northern Beaches)
- Palma → Inca → Alcúdia → Port de Pollença
- 2 hours end to end
- €5.50 to Alcúdia
- Runs every 2 hours
Line 301 (Eastern Beaches)
- Palma → Manacor → Cala Millor
- 1.5 hours
- €6.80 to end
- Hourly service
Line 501 (Sóller/Deià)
- Palma → Valldemossa → Deià → Sóller
- The scenic route
- €3.20 to Sóller
- Every hour
The Villages Worth The Journey
Valldemossa (Line 210)
- 30 minutes from Palma
- €2.40 one way
- First bus 7:30am, last return 8:30pm
Sóller (Line 501 or train)
- 1 hour by bus
- €3.20 one way
- Connects to Port de Sóller tram
Sineu (Line 310)
- Wednesday market essential
- 45 minutes
- €4.50
- Extra buses on market day
The Schedules Nobody Explains
Summer (May-October):
- Beach routes: Every 30-60 minutes
- Village routes: Every 1-2 hours
- Last buses: Usually 8:30pm
Winter (November-April):
- Beach routes: Reduced or suspended
- Village routes: 2-4 per day
- Last buses: Often 6:30pm
Sundays/Holidays
- Everything reduced by 50%
- Some routes don’t run at all
- Check tib.org or cry
The Trains: Yes, Plural
The Metro (Nobody Calls It That)
Palma has a two-line metro system that locals pretend doesn’t exist:
M1 Line (University)
- Palma → UIB campus
- Used by students only
- €1.80 single
M2 Line (Marratxí)
- Palma → Industrial estates
- Useful for IKEA, that’s it
- €1.80 single
The Real Trains
Palma-Inca Line
- The commuter workhorse
- Stops at: Santa Maria, Consell, Binissalem, Lloseta, Inca
- 35 minutes to Inca
- €3.20 single
- Every 30 minutes
Inca-Manacor Line
- The slow scenic route
- Stops at: Sineu, Petra, Manacor
- 45 minutes Inca-Manacor
- €2.80 single
- Every 2 hours
Inca-Sa Pobla Line
- The forgotten branch
- Agricultural towns
- 25 minutes
- €2.20 single
- Hourly
The Sóller Train (The Tourist Trap Worth It)
The wooden train from 1912 that everyone photographs:
Schedule
- 5 departures daily (10:10, 10:50, 12:15, 14:10, 19:30)
- 55-minute journey
- Returns at similar times
Prices
- One way: €25
- Return: €33
- Residents: €10 (with ID)
The Alternative Bus 501 does same route for €3.20 but misses the tunnels and orange groves experience.
The Tram From Sóller to Port de Sóller
- Every 30 minutes
- €8 single (expensive for 20 minutes)
- Walk is 45 minutes along the road
Integration: Making Connections Work
Estació Intermodal (Palma’s Hub)
Underground bus/train station at Plaza España:
Ground Level Metro, tourist information Level -1 TIB buses, ticket offices Level -2 Trains, more TIB buses Confusion Level Maximum
Navigation Tips
- Follow color-coded lines on floor
- Platforms change randomly
- Ask uniformed staff, not security
The Connection Points
Inca Where trains meet northern buses
- Transfer to: Alcúdia, Pollença, Sa Pobla buses
- Wait time: Usually 10-30 minutes
- Café upstairs for killing time
Manacor Eastern hub
- Transfer to: Beaches, Artà, caves
- Station 10-minute walk from bus station
- No coordination whatsoever
Beach Access Reality
Beaches You Can Reach
Easy (Direct bus, frequent service):
- Illetes (EMT 3)
- Playa de Palma (EMT 15/25)
- Cala Millor (TIB 301)
- Port de Pollença (TIB 340)
- Cala Mayor (EMT 3/4)
Moderate (One connection, decent frequency):
- Alcúdia beaches (TIB 351 from Inca)
- Canyamel (TIB 411 from Manacor)
- Sa Coma (TIB 412 from Manacor)
Difficult (Multiple connections or limited service):
- Cala Mondragó (Summer only from Santanyí)
- Es Trenc (TIB 525 to Campos, then 15km bike)
- Cala Varques (Forget it)
- Sa Calobra (One bus daily, seasonal)
Beaches You Can’t Reach
Without a car, taxi, or very long walk:
- Cala Torta
- Cala Mesquida (unless hiking from Cala Agulla)
- Most southern calas
- Northwestern coast
The Hacks That Save Sanity
Timing Intelligence
First buses 5:30-6:30am (empty, on time) Sweet spot 9:30-11am (after commuters, before tourists) Avoid 2-4pm (siesta returns, hot, crowded) Last reliable 6:30pm (later buses often cancelled)
The App Situation
MobiPalma EMT buses only, real-time arrival, works 70% of time TIB App Exists but nobody uses it Google Maps Surprisingly accurate for schedules CityMapper Better for connections
Multi-Day Strategies
The Base Camp Method
- Stay in Palma, day trip everywhere
- Most buses start/end here
- Evening options remain
The Triangle Route
- Three nights each: Palma, Sóller, Pollença
- Covers most of island
- Reduces travel time
The Surrender
- Accept you’ll miss things
- Focus on bus-accessible highlights
- Rent a car for one day for the rest
Costs Breakdown
EMT Palma Tickets
- Single: €2 (€5 airport)
- 10-journey card: €10
- Monthly: €37 (residents only)
TIB Tickets
- Singles: €1.80-13.50 (distance-based)
- Online booking: 40% discount
- Card purchase: 20% discount
- Cash: Full price
Tourist Options That Don’t Exist
- No tourist travel card
- No weekly passes
- No family tickets
- No group discounts
The system doesn’t want tourists using it.
Seasonal Variations
Summer Service (May-October)
- Beach routes active
- Increased frequency
- Night buses Friday/Saturday (limited)
- Tourist information desks staffed
Winter Service (November-April)
- Many beach routes suspended
- Reduced frequency
- Earlier last buses
- Heating non-existent
The Rainy Day Disaster
When it rains (rare but dramatic):
- Buses run late or not at all
- No rain shelters at most stops
- Locals drive, buses empty
- Perfect day for museums in Palma
The Honest Assessment
What Works
- Palma to major towns
- Airport connections
- Morning commuter routes
- Price (if you crack the system)
What Doesn’t
- Beach hopping
- Evening returns
- Sunday service
- Tourist attractions (caves, monasteries)
Who Should Try
- Budget travelers
- Environmental warriors
- Urban explorers
- People who enjoy puzzles
Who Shouldn’t
- Families with young children
- Anyone with mobility issues
- Type-A personalities
- Beach hoppers
The Local Perspective
After three years, here’s what I’ve learned:
Mallorcans don’t take buses to beaches – they drive to their secret spots at 7am or own boats. The public transport system exists for workers and students, not leisure.
But this creates opportunity. The buses to Binissalem are empty but the town is charming. The train to Petra sees no tourists but the Thursday market is authentic. The early bus to Valldemossa beats the tour coaches by two hours.
You’ll miss the famous calas that require cars. You’ll eat dinner early to catch last buses. You’ll walk more than planned.
But you’ll also have conversations with the same bus driver daily. You’ll learn which café near which bus stop serves the best cortado. You’ll discover that the journey – slow, sometimes frustrating, decidedly local – becomes part of the experience.
The Five Commandments of Bus Travel
- Always have exact change (drivers hate making change)
- Validate your ticket (inspectors exist and fine)
- Signal the driver (buses skip stops without waiting passengers)
- Move back (front fills first, back has seats)
- Thank the driver (“Gràcies” goes far)
The Alternative Transport
When buses fail:
Taxis €30-90 for most journeys, scarce in summer Uber Exists but limited, often more expensive Blablacar Ride-sharing, Spanish required Bicycles E-bikes increasingly popular, €25/day Hitchhiking Still works in rural areas
The Bottom Line
Can you explore Mallorca by public transport? Yes. Will you see everything? No. Is it worth trying? Depends on your priorities.
If you want to tick off Instagram beaches and mountain monasteries, rent a car. If you want to experience Mallorca like a local (who can’t afford a car), master the buses.
The couple from the morning finally figured out their connection. They’re heading to Sóller via the bus because the train was full. They’ll miss the vintage carriages but save €50. They’ll see the same mountains through different windows. They’ll arrive at the same plaza where orange trees shade the same cafés.
The journey is different. The destination remains magical.
Essential Resources
- tib.org - Schedules and route maps
- emtpalma.es - City bus information
- trendesoller.com - Tourist train bookings
- Google Maps - Real-time updates (mostly accurate)
